Le livre « Latitude Zéro » écrit par Mike Horn est le récit de son défi inouï : faire le tour du monde en solitaire en passant par l’équateur.
Fiche de lecture
- La préparation
- La traversée de l’Atlantique
- La jungle amazonienne
- La Colombie et l’Équateur
- Le Pacifique
- L’Indonésie
- L’océan Indien
- L’Afrique
- Le Congo
- Entre excitation et dégoût
© Mike Horn, photo issue de son site https://www.mikehorn.com/
La préparation
Mike Horn commence son voyage le 2 juin 1999 à la capitale du Gabon : Libreville. Son but est de faire sur 40 000 km le tour du monde en suivant l’équateur en s’autorisant une marge de 40 km. Pour préparer son aventure, Mike Horn manquait de fonds (notamment pour s’acheter du matériel), c’est pourquoi il a démarché plusieurs sponsors. Pourtant, deux mois avant son départ, il n’a toujours pas acheté son trimaran. Sur le point de décaler son départ, il explique son projet aux amis chez qui il passe la soirée. Impressionné, Marco Landolt lui offre son bateau. Mike Horn accepte et le nomme “Latitude 0”. Quelques semaines plus tard, il sauve un groupe de Mexicains sur le point de se noyer en essayant d’entrer clandestinement aux États-Unis.
Son bateau doit être acheminé de San Diego à Libreville, mais le départ du cargo est décalé d’un mois, lui imposant un retard trop important. Mike Horn décide de l’amener à Miami afin que son trimaran puisse partir dans les temps. Il prend donc la voiture avec son frère, Martin et réussissent de justesse à mettre l’embarcation dans un conteneur. N’ayant plus d’argent pour prendre l’avion, ils se débrouillent et obtiennent deux places sur un vol grâce à leurs relations.
La traversée de l’Atlantique
A son départ, l’océan Atlantique est menaçant. Mike Horn est accompagné de son équipe (sa femme, son frère pour la logistique, Claude-Alain Gaillard qui l’accompagnera dans l’ascension de certains monts, sa cousine qui a créé son site web et Sebastian Devenish le photographe) qui l’a aidé à organiser son voyage. Elle a pour mission de lui acheminer le matériel au cours de son périple. Avant de monter sur son bateau, Mike Hornramasse six coquillages représentant chacun une étape de son voyage (l’Atlantique, l’Amérique du Sud, le Pacifique, l’Indonésie, l’océan Indien et l’Afrique) qu’il se jure de reposer au même endroit à son retour.
Il embarque et se retrouve complètement seul, à la fois terrifié et excité. La mer est mauvaise, il ne dort presque pas les premiers jours et son inexpérience le taraude.
São Tomé-et-Príncipe est un état insulaire africain proche de l’équateur.
Quatre jours après son départ, il arrive aux dangereux récifs des îles São Tomé. Il se réveille en trombes et grâce à quelques manœuvres techniques, il parvient à éviter un gigantesque mur de granit. Lorsqu’il se trouve à 700 km du Brésil, il est pris dans une tempête tropicale de cinq heures. Il prend de gros risques pour réparer son bateau qui ne cesse de s’abîmer.
Au 19ème jour, lorsqu’il arrive enfin à l’embouchure de l’Amazone, il y retrouve Martin, Sebastian et Sean qui le harcèlent de photos. Sa femme et ses filles le rejoignent à Macapà. Il laisse son bateau sur le bord du fleuve et laisse son équipe l’acheminer jusqu’au départ de l’océan suivant. Mike commence ses 3600 km de marche au cœur de la jungle amazonienne.
La jungle Amazonienne.
La jungle amazonienne
Mike Horn avance avec difficultés avec sa machette : il estime sa traversée à six mois. Il s’endort chaque nuit dans un hamac pour se protéger des prédateurs nocturnes. Il boit le jus des lianes et chasse des singes, des cochons sauvages et des antilopes naines pour se nourrir. Le 17e jour, il arrive au confluent de deux rivières. Il n’avance que de 600 mètres en 10H et finit écorché par les herbes. Le 35e jour, il se fait mordre par un serpent qui lui fait perdre partiellement la vue et la sensibilité de son visage. Il entaille sa main autour de la blessure avec un couteau pour éliminer un maximum de venin. Ne pouvant plus bouger pendant 4 jours, il se voit mourir : il se déshydrate, est fiévreux et sa chaire pourrie autour de la morsure. Très affaibli, il parvient malgré tout à reprendre son chemin.
© Mike Horn, photo issue de son site https://www.mikehorn.com/
Le 60e jour, il achète une pirogue à un autochtone et rejoint Martin venu lui amener un VTT à Balbina, à mi-chemin de sa traversée amazonienne. Il pédale jusqu’au río Negro puis repart en pirogue. Il atteint alors une partie de l’Amazonie vierge à 90%, émerveillé par la beauté d’un tel paysage préservé. Il pleut des trombes pendant 4 jours. Un jour, il se rend dans la jungle pour allumer un feu mais oublie d’attacher sa pirogue. Elle est emportée avec tout son matériel. Il tente de la récupérer à la nage et la retrouve miraculeusement coincée près d’un arbre.
Forêt primaire dans la Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, en Colombie.
La Colombie et l’Équateur
Au milieu d’un marécage, il retrouve Seb et Sean qui le filment et le photographient, puis repart sur le Rio Japurà. Pour attirer les caïmans, il imite leurs cris, à genoux dans son bateau, et les extrait de l’eau à la main juste avant de les tuer d’un coup de couteau derrière la tête. Un soir, alors qu’il s’installe dans son hamac, il des milliers de fourmis rouges l’attaquent, l’obligeant à se jeter dans la rivière pour s’en débarrasser tant la douleur est violente.
108 jours dans la jungle amazonienne ont passé, il arrive enfin à la frontière colombienne. Au poste de frontière, on lui déconseille vivement de continuer son périple. Conscient des dangers qui l’attendent, il poursuit son chemin qui s’avèrera truffé de postes de police et de nombreux narcotrafiquants. Il avance de village en village, aidé par quelques personnes rencontrées au cours de sa marche pour éviter les narcotrafiquants. Afin d’obtenir un laissez-passer dans une région détenue par les trafiquants, il demande à rencontrer leur chef qui l’autorise à circuler sur les rivières, mais il le prévient : s’il met un pied à terre, ses soldats le fusilleront.
Le Cayambe est un volcan situé à l’est des Andes équatoriennes, dans la province de Pichincha.
A la frontière équatorienne, Martin lui amène son VTT. Là-bas, sa femme et ses filles lui font la surprise de le retrouver après six mois sans s’être vus. Avant de traverser les Andes, il lui doit escalader avec Claude-Alain le plus haut sommet équatorien (5790m) : le mont Cayambe.
Malgré le paludisme et la météo catastrophique, ils parviennent à faire rapidement l’aller-retour. Mike Horn repart en VTT et arrive à la capitale de l’Équateur : Quito. Il en profite pour répondre pendant un jour aux journalistes puis arrive enfin à l’océan Pacifique.
Le Pacifique
6 mois après son départ et pressé de remettre les voiles, il doit attendre à Pedernales car l’acheminement de son bateau a pris du retard. De plus, une nouvelle crise de malaria l’oblige à se reposer. Au bout de quelques jours, bien que la séparation avec sa famille soit difficile, il s’engage sur le Pacifique.
En pleine mer, il se rend alors compte qu’il a oublié de visser le compteur de vitesse : l’eau n’arrête pas d’entrer dans l’habitacle déjà à moitié immergé. Son lit et ses vêtements sont trempés plusieurs jours lui seront nécessaires pour tout sécher.
18 000 km (trois fois l’Atlantique, environ 3 mois de navigation) le séparent de l’île d’Halmahera, en Indonésie. Le pilote automatique, le téléphone satellite et la radio tombent successivement en panne. Il donne rendez-vous à Sébastian sur les îles Galápagos pour changer le matériel. De nouvelles crises de paludisme le clouent régulièrement dans son lit plusieurs jours d’affilée.
Deux mois ont passé et un capitaine de cargo croisé en pleine mer discute avec lui par radio. Il décide d’envoyer à Mike un bon repas ainsi qu’une bouteille de whisky dans un seau, mais celui-ci coule sous ses yeux, détruisant son moral.
Latitude 0 commence à montrer des signes de fatigue. Mike Horn donne rendez-vous à Martin, Seb et Sean sur les îles indonésiennes pour qu’ils s’occupent de son bateau. Arrivé à Jakarta, on lui déconseille de continuer : une guerre entre islamistes et chrétiens a éclaté à Halmahera. Ses amis se retrouvent piégés dans ce conflit, et sont attaqués et condamnés à mort par les islamistes. Heureusement, l’armée officielle parvient à les sauver de justesse, ils peuvent enfin rejoindre Mike, escortés par les soldats.
Jakarta, capitale de l’Indonésie.
L’Indonésie
Il est impossible pour eux de retourner à Halmahera, ils embarquent donc avec Mike 5 jours sur Latitude 0. Mike est heureux d’avoir de la compagnie après tout ce temps passé seul. 97 jours plus tard, il arrive à l’île de Bangkok. Il reste un moment sur la plage, tenant à faire le point sur le chemin parcouru et sur ce qui l’attend.
En route pour les Philippines, il est pris dans une tornade. Son bateau subit de gros dégâts et il finit par se blesser en essayant de le protéger. Une fois la météo calmée, il passe deux jours à le réparer sommairement : à Samarinda, une équipe l’attend pour le réparer comme il se doit. Une fois les réparations effectuées, il se sépare des autres et part vers la jungle indonésienne en VTT, emportant une pirogue gonflable avec lui.
De nombreux chemins boueux l’obligent à porter son vélo sur le dos. Il croise cinq à six serpents venimeux par jour. Parfois, il croise les principaux habitants de Bornéo (Dayaks) qui lui offrent l’hospitalité pour la nuit, lui permettant de dormir au sec.
Padang est une ville d’Indonésie dans l’île de Sumatra
Il parcourt ainsi en 15 jours 900 km jusqu’à Samarinda de Pontianak. Il y retrouve Martin et son bateau, sa femme et ses filles. Il poursuit son voyage dans le détroit de Singapour où le trafic maritime est le plus dense du monde. La peur de heurter un cargo l’empêche de dormir.
A l’embouchure du fleuve Indragiri, épuisé, il retrouve Martin, Seb, Sean et Claude-Alain. Il rejoint Padang en VTT où des journalistes l’attendent pour une conférence de presse. L’exploit de terminer son tour du monde leur semble désormais possible.
Les Maldives, pays tropical de l’océan Indien, sont composées de 26 atolls en forme d’anneaux comprenant plus de 1 000 îles coralliennes.
L’océan Indien
Mike Horn souhaite traverser l’océan Indien fin mai, avant la mousson. Malheureusement, dès le 5e jour, il traverse plusieurs tempêtes. Grâce à son expérience, il adapte ses heures de sommeil et sait désormais reconnaître l’arrivée des tempêtes. Quelques jours plus tard, il est pris dans un cyclone qui le plonge dans le noir complet : son mât se fend sous la pression et son bateau s’incline à angle droit. Il profite d’un bref moment de calme et fait contrepoids avec son corps, redressant le bateau in extremis. Il ne dort pas, ne boit pas et ne mange pas pendant 4 jours. N’en pouvant plus, il lâche prise, descend dans la cabine et s’endort. Après 24 heures de sommeil, il se réveille miraculeusement sain et sauf. Il s’arrête aux Maldives pour réparer son bateau dans un piteux état.
En route vers l’Afrique, sa première et dernière étape, il arrive au Kenya où il retrouve son équipe et Marco, qui lui a fait la surprise de venir. A la fois excité et nostalgique d’avoir fini sa traversée des trois océans, il a du mal à quitter Latitude 0. Il reprend son VTT direction Libreville.
Le mont Kenya est le point culminant du Kenya.
L’Afrique
Parmi les 5 pays qu’il lui reste à traverser se trouve la République démocratique du Congo, touchée par la guerre civile. Comme toujours, il n’écoute pas les personnes lui conseillant de ne pas poursuivre son chemin et il tombe sur un barrage policier dès le premier jour. Il le contourne de nuit et il parvient à passer au travers des postes de contrôle de l’armée.
Il traverse plus loin une réserve naturelle où il croise antilopes, éléphants et grands fauves.
Mike retrouve Martin, Cedric, Sebastian et Claude-Alain pour l’ascension du Mont Kenya. Le sac contenant l’équipement d’escalade nécessaire semble avoir été volé à l’aéroport ce qui ne l’empêche pas d’entreprendre la montée avec le matériel qu’il a déjà.
Le sommet (5199 m) est l’un des plus difficiles à escalader. Les membres de l’équipe veulent faire l’aller-retour en une journée, une brume épaisse les coince la nuit dans une petite cavité à -15°. Contrairement à ses amis, Mike s’endort rapidement. Arrivés au sommet, la beauté du paysage les subjugue.
De retour, Mike part en VTT pour Nakuru, en plein territoire Massaï, pour y retrouver sa femme et ses filles. Elles le suivent jusqu’à Kisumu où il continue seul sur le lac le plus grand d’Afrique : le lac Victoria. Il échange son vélo contre une petite embarcation additionnée d’une voile.
A la frontière Ougandaise, des soldats armés l’arrêtent et exigent un droit de passage. Mike est en règle (visa ougandais), il refuse donc de payer les soldats et poursuit sa route.
Le lever du soleil sur le Congo.
Le Congo
Lors d’une énorme tempête de nuit, la pirogue se renverse avec tout son équipement, qu’il parvient à récupérer et à accrocher à l’embarcation. N’arrivant pas à évacuer l’eau de la pirogue, il l’abandonne et utilise son sac à dos comme matelas pneumatique. Il finit par se rendre compte qu’il est à cinq ou six jours de la terre ferme, il retourne donc récupérer la pirogue. Il fait tout son possible pour la vider pendant 8 heures et réussit enfin à reprendre sa route. Il arrive à Entebbe au bout de 6 jours, épuisé : il a bu l’eau du lac et n’a pratiquement rien mangé. Il arrive par hasard sur une plage de sable blanc aménagée par deux grands reporters anglais, Alison Porteous et Tim Cooper. Ils l’invitent chez eux et Mike y passe deux jours paradisiaques. Alison lui écrit de fausses lettres de recommandation pour qu’il puisse passer les différents postes de frontières et lui fait rencontrer un homme influent en République démocratique du Congo pour qu’il donne du crédit à ces lettres.
Le parc national Queen Elizabeth est l’un des plus grands parcs nationaux ougandais.
Requinqué, Mike prend le vélo et arrive dans la réserve naturelle du Queen Elizabeth National Park où il passe plusieurs jours.
Au poste de frontière de la RDC, il tombe sur des rebelles du Front de libération du Congo qui le prennent pour un espion du gouvernement et l’emprisonnent. Quatre jours plus tard, ils le relâchent en lui interdisant de traverser la frontière. Mike retourne voir Allison pour lui demander une entrevue avec le président, auprès de qui il souhaite plaider sa cause. Il rencontre son chef de cabinet qui lui fournit un laissez-passer et obtient le soutient de Jean-Pierre Bemba, chef du FLC.
La petite ville frontalière de Cocobeach entre le Gabon et l’Afrique centrale.
Entre excitation et dégoût
Mike parvient, en payant à chaque fois les gardes, à passer les nombreux barrages. Il évite au maximum les militaires en dormant dans la jungle ou dans de petits villages. Dans l’un d’eux, il aide une femme à accoucher. Il se fait racketter et menacer plusieurs fois, en particulier par un militaire lourdement armé pensant que Mike est un espion.
Arrivé à l’extrême limite du pays, il est accueilli en héros et poursuit sa traversée de l’Afrique.
© Mike Horn, photo issue de son site https://www.mikehorn.com/
Il achète une pirogue pour rejoindre la Centrafrique (dont la frontière est la plus dangereuse du pays) en descendant la rivière Oubangui. A Bangui, capitale du pays, il est soulagé et poursuit en VTT. Il croise des Pygmées dont la plupart ont été exterminés et leurs femmes prostituées. Ils l’aident et lui vendent à manger. Mike pense l’impact négatif de l’homme sur la nature et à ses semblables.
À l’entrée du Gabon, l’histoire se répète : chantage financier et menaces. Il passe par la jungle et rejoint enfin Libreville avec Sean et Martin qui immortalisent le moment. Heureux et angoissé de rejoindre la civilisation, il progresse de 200 km par jour. Il finit son voyage au bout de 17 mois et replace, comme il se l’était promis, ses six coquillages à l’endroit exact où il les avait ramassés.
Vous pouvez vous procurer le livre sur :
- Amazon : https://amzn.to/2OzgaS5
- La librairie Eyrolles : https://www.eyrolles.com/Loisirs/Livre/latitude-zero-9782266130288/?ae=60
Sommaire
Prologue
Six coquillages
Le cri du Caïman
La mer promise
Tempêtes au Paradis
L’œil du cyclone
Le pire, c’est l’Homme
Remerciements
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