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Fiche de lecture
- Principaux risques en forêt
- Le feu
- Les abris
- Les vêtements
- L’eau
- La nourriture
- Utiliser son environnement
Principaux risques en forêt
En forêt, il faut faire particulièrement attention :
- Aux branches dans les yeux : utilisez une lampe frontale et évitez les casquettes qui masquent une partie du champ de vision.
- Aux tiques : inspectez-vous tous les jours, portez des vêtements couvrants, pantalon dans les chaussettes et utilisez du DEET (fait fondre les tissus synthétiques).
- Aux moustiques : attirés par le C0², la chaleur, la sueur (évitez la surchauffe).
- Aux hyménoptères : approchez une braise ou une cigarette près de la piqure jusqu’à ce que ce soit légèrement douloureux, sans toucher. Répétez l’opération plusieurs fois.
- Aux chutes de branches et d’arbres : faites attentions aux vents qui ne viennent pas du nord. Dormez dans une clairière ou près d’arbres jeunes et cherchez les branches mortes.
- Aux incendies : fuyez toujours face au vent.
- Aux animaux : ils attaqueront seulement s’ils sentent que leur survie en dépend. Faites régulièrement beaucoup de bruit. Pour les ours, stockez la nourriture à 200m dans un arbre et utilisez un spray au poivre. Pour les chiens, mettez-vous dos à dos, faire semblant d’épauler un fusil avec un bâton et mettez-vous en hauteur.
- A la chasse : mettez des vêtements de couleurs vives et restez sur les chemins principaux de la forêt.
Le feu
Le bois d’allumage doit être sec, mince, être long et avoir des arrêtes saillantes.
Pour convertir une braise en flamme, il faut fabriquer un petit nid avec :
- L’écorce de genévrier qu’on malaxe et qu’on étire
- L’écorce interne de tilleul
- Des herbes sèches
- De la ficelle ou de la filasse de plombier
- Le pappus de chardons, pissenlits, massettes… mélangés avec des herbes de la forêt.
Pour faire du feu à l’archet, vous avez besoin d’une drille (baguette sèche bien droite de 30 cm en noisetier, tilleul, saule…), d’une planchette sèche de20cm et de 2cm d’épaisseur en lierre, saule, noisetier, tilleul, d’une paumelle (coquillage, bois) qu’on lubrifie avec de la salive ou de la cire et un archet en saule ou noisetier de 2 cm de diamètre.
Il faut que la drille soit parfaitement droite et stable, le bois sec, l’encoche doit se remplir et la sciure doit être bien noire et ne doit pas s’éparpiller autour du trou.
Vous pouvez concentrer les rayons du soleil pour faire du feu avec une loupe, de la glace propre et polie (de stalactites ou de ruisseau), un préservatif plein d’eau ou une canette de soda polie au dentifrice, à l’huile + cendres ou au chocolat.
Le bois idéal doit être pris sur un arbre mort et debout. Comme allume-feu, vous pouvez mettre de la sève de sapin emprisonnée dans un mouchoir en papier.
Les abris
Dans la forêt, l’endroit idéal est côté sud, quelque part à mi-pente sur le dessus d’une petite bosse dans la pente.
Isolez-vous du froid en créant un tapis végétal (les feuilles sont particulièrement efficaces). Créez une surface étanche au-dessus de vous avec un poncho, une bâche, un tarp ou de l’écorce de bouleau (extrêmement inflammable, attention au feu).
Les vêtements
Les couches externes vous offrent une protection mécanique et une capacité à vous faufiler dans la végétation. Ils doivent ne pas être trop amples, ne pas avoir trop de poches ou de sangles et un chapeau ou une casquette à l’envers pourront vous protéger le crâne de certaines égratignures.
En forêt, elles vous protègent contre le feu, le vent et la pluie et peuvent servir à transporter du matériel.
Les couches isolantes vous isolent du froid. La laine est idéale car elle reste chaude même humide, elle est silencieuse, retient les odeurs, brûle mal, naturellement bactéricide, fongicide et virucide.
Les couches au contact du corps servent à éloigner l’humidité générée par la peau plus loin dans le système de vêtements. Ils doivent être lavés régulièrement et soit en laine mérinos, soit imprégnés d’ions d’argent.
Un tour de cou peut servir à de nombreuses choses comme par exemple de masque anti-poussière, de couvre-chef contre le soleil, immobiliser un membre, serviette de bain, gant de toilette, nappe de pique-nique, filtrer de l’eau, transporter une cueillette, arme improvisée (avec un caillou dedans)…
L’eau
L’eau de source sortant directement de la roche ou de la roche est la moins risquée, cependant, toute eau doit être filtrée avant d’être consommée.
Dans une zone boueuse, il suffit de creuser de quelques dizaines de cm, de récupérer l’eau et de la laisser décanter.
Vous pouvez récolter l’eau de pluie en utilisant un poncho étendu dont on retourne le capuchon, en enroulant une cordelette autour d’un arbre qu’on laisse pendre dans un récipient ou en récupérant la rosée en marchant dans les herbes avec des tissus enroulés aux chevilles.
La nourriture
Les pièges n’étant pas sélectif, faites en sorte de faire des pièges adaptés à votre cible et chaque matin, relevez vos pièges. Quand vous quittez une zone, retirez tous vos pièges.
Les collets doivent être en laiton ou en fil de fer assez fin. Placez des obstacles pour canaliser les animaux vers le piège. 5 ou 6 collets bien placés dans une zone riche peuvent suffit à attraper un animal chaque nuit. (Dessin © Manuel de (sur)vie en milieu forestier, David Manise, Guillaume Mussard)
Pour les oiseaux, le plus simple est de poser un appât au fond d’une boite de conserve enterrée (ou fixée sur une branche), juste assez étroite pour que l’oiseau y saute sans pouvoir redéployer ses ailes.
Pour préparer un petit gibier à poils, il faut inciser du dessus de la tête jusqu’au bas du dos en suivant la colonne et en retournant la peau. On le pend par les pattes, on ouvre l’abdomen sans percer l’intestin et on arrache le contenu. Enfin, on coupe les organes génitaux et la vessie.
Pour préparer un petit gibier à plumes, il faut plonger l’animal dans l’eau bouillante, le déplumer, puis le vider en faisant une incision autour du cloaque en ouvrant la peau du ventre. On arrache les organes à la main. On trouve parfois une réserve de graisse dans l’abdomen très riche et très utile.
Les insectes faciles à identifier et comestibles sont les suivants :
- Les sauterelles, grillons et criquets : retirez les pattes, les aiguillons et la tête. Consommez rôties avec du sel.
- Les fourmis : on peut les manger crues en les écrasant avec le doigt pour les tuer avant de les consommer.
- Les vers de terre : dégorgez-les en les trempant dans un 1er bain d’eau claire, puis idéalement dans un 2nd bain d’eau citronnée (seulement 10 min de trempage sont nécessaires). Coupez-les ensuite en rondelles et ajoutés-les à une soupe, ou faites-les frire/grillés. Ils peuvent également être séchés/fumés et réduits en poudre.
Les poissons peuvent être facilement pêchés en tendant un filet dans l’eau face au courant, ou en fabriquant une nasse avec une centaine de branches de bois flexible. On y dépose un appât, un caillou et on l’attache avec une corde pour pouvoir la remonter facilement. Enfin, vous pouvez pêcher à la main sous les berges des ruisseaux en restant calme et en les saisissant par les ouïes fermement. (Dessin © Manuel de (sur)vie en milieu forestier, David Manise, Guillaume Mussard)
Utiliser son environnement
Fabriquez de la ficelle en tressant dans un sens puis dans l’autre les radicelles de conifères, les tiges d’orties, l’écorce interne des tilleuls, des genévriers, des peupliers, voire des herbes, des joncs, des lambeaux de sac plastique, etc… (Dessin © Manuel de (sur)vie en milieu forestier, David Manise, Guillaume Mussard)
Les nœuds les plus utiles sont la tête d’alouette (pour accrocher des objets à sa ceinture, à son étui à couteau, etc…), le nœud de cabestan pour fixer une corde sur un point fixe et le tour mort avec deux demi-clés pour attacher solidement un lien à un point fixe (caillou, arbre…).
Vous pouvez affuter votre couteau avec un éclat de verre, de silex, d’obsidienne… Tant que les minéraux sont plus durs que l’acier. Ensuite, créez une surface plane sur un bout de bois pour finir le polissage en faisant comme si vous tartiniez du beurre. (Dessin © Manuel de (sur)vie en milieu forestier, David Manise, Guillaume Mussard)
Vous pouvez vous procurer le livre sur :
- Amazon : https://amzn.to/30Yov40
- La librairie Eyrolles : https://www.eyrolles.com/Loisirs/Livre/manuel-de-sur-vie-en-milieu-forestier-9782851809902/?ae=60
Sommaire
AVANT-PROPOS
INTRODUCTION
LA FORÊT
- Visibilité courte
- Mobilité limitée
CHAPITRE 1
LES RISQUES EN FORÊTS, MYTHES ET RÉALITÉ
- Branches dans les yeux
- Moustiques
- Hyménoptères
- Chutes de branches et d’arbres
- Incendie
- Animaux
- Chasse
CHAPITRE 2
LE FEU
- Rappel physico-chimique
- Quand on a déjà une flamme
- Firesteel ?
- Fabriquer une braise
- L’amadouvier, gardien de votre précieuse braise
- Piston
- Friction à l’archet
- Les points critiques
- Les techniques originales pour faire du feu
- Utiliser un feu
- Entretien du feu
CHAPITRE 3
LES ABRIS EN MILIEU FORESTIER
- Le choix de l’emplacement
- Les matériaux isolants
- Créer une surface étanche
- Utiliser un arbre couché comme base de structure
CHAPITRE 4
LES VÊTEMENTS
- Les couches externes
- les couches isolantes
- Les couches au contact du corps
CHAPITRE 5
TROUVER DE L’EAU EN FORÊT
- Les sources et points d’eau «propres»
- Les sources d’eau sale
- Récupérer la pluie
CHAPITRE 6
CE QUI SE MANGE FACILEMENT EN FORÊT
- Le petit piégeage
- Piéger les oiseaux
- Les insectes comestibles
- La pêche de survie
CHAPITRE 7
SYSTÈME D – UTILISER SON ENVIRONNEMENT
- Fabriquer de la ficelle
- Tressage de base pour fabriquer de la ficelle
- Les nœuds les plus utiles.
- Affûter un couteau avec les moyens du bord
- Faire une boite en écorce de bouleau
- Fabriquer un outil coupant facilement avec un éclat de silex
CHAPITRE 8
RÉFLEXION SUR LES KITS DE SURVIE
- Un kit pour quel contexte
- Les abris
- Les vêtements
- Le feu
- 3 jours sans eau potable
- 3 semaines sans manger
- 3 mois sans hygiène
- La liste de nos 5 outils de base
MOT DE LA FIN
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