Le livre « Larousse des Champignons », écrit par Guy Redeuilh est un guide pratique complet permettant d’identifier facilement plus de 400 champignons de France et d’Europe.
Fiche de lecture
- Qu’est-ce qu’un champignon ?
- Les meilleurs champignons comestibles
- La cueillette
- Préparer et cuisiner
- Le séchage
- La culture
- Le calendrier
- Les syndromes d’intoxication
Macrolepiota procera, la lépiote élevée, appelée aussi coulemelle, est une espèce de champignons comestibles de la famille des Agaricacées.
Qu’est-ce qu’un champignon ?
Ils forment un groupe plus proche des animaux que des plantes. Ils ont en commun 7 caractéristiques :
- Eucaryotes (organisme dont les cellules présentent un noyau contenant les chromosomes)
- Forment un mycélium (filaments diffus et ramifiés)
- Hétérotrophes : ne contenant pas de chlorophylle comme les végétaux, ils sont obligés de puiser leur nourriture dans la matière organique.
- Absorbotrophes : seules de petites molécules pénètrent à travail la membrane cellulaire de la matière organique.
- Se reproduisent par les spores : 2 spores permettent de produire des champignons à la surface du sol.
- Spores immobiles
- Paroi des cellules formée de chitine : on la retrouve également dans l’exosquelette des arthropodes.
Les ectomycorhizes sont une forme de symbiose mycorhizienne entre certaines espèces de champignons et environ 10 % des espèces végétales vasculaires.
Une mycorhize est une association symbiotique entre un champignon et les parties souterraines d’un végétal supérieur. Plus de 90% des végétaux sont mycorhiziques. Un lychen est un végétal très résistant formé de l’association d’un champignon et d’une algue.
Le mycélium est la plus grande partie du champignon. C’est un ensemble de filaments (généralement blancs) ramifiés formant la partie végétative d’un champignon.
Pour identifier un champignon, vous devez observer :
- Son chapeau : mamelonné, campanulé, conique, ombiliqué, déprimé, en entonnoir.
- Ses lames : libres, adnées, échancrées, décurrentes, ascendantes.
- Sa forme : cylindrique, en fuseau, en massue, bulbeux, ventru, excentré, radicant.
- Sa base : bulbe marginé, volve en sac, volve fragmentée, volve circoncise.
- L’ornement : anneau, cortine, armille, anneau simple, chiné, réticulé, pied méchuleux.
Les meilleurs champignons comestibles
Agaric des prés, Amanite des Césars, Amanite rougissante, Cèpe bronzé, Cèpe d’été, Cèpe de Bordeaux, Cèpes des pins, Tricholome de la Saint-Georges, Girolle, Coprin chevelu, Trompette-des-morts, Chanterelle en tube, Pied-Bleu, Coulemelle, Morille vulgaire, Russule charbonnière, Tricholome terreux, Truffe noire.
Le meunier (Clitopilus prunulus) est une espèce de champignon comestible de la famille des Entolomataceae. © L’Autonomie par les Livres
La cueillette
Ayez de bons vêtements en toile serrés pour ne pas rester accroché aux épines et branchages, portez de solides chaussures montantes, voir des bottes en fonction de la météo. Munissez-vous d’une canne ou d’un bâton pour soulever les herbes, fougères et branches basses.
Prenez un bon couteau porté dans son étui, attaché par une chaîne pour ne pas l’oublier après l’avoir posé parterre. Nettoyez et épluchez vos champignons dès leur récolte afin qu’ils ne se salissent pas mutuellement, vous n’aurez ainsi pas besoin de les laver.
Prenez un récipient rigide et aéré : un grand panier en osier véritable à fond plat que vous cloisonnerez avec des fougères. Prévoyez quelques sacs en papier vides pour isoler les spécimens intéressants ou fragiles.
Une loupe (x10 minimum) permet d’étudier les petits détails invisibles à l’oeil nu. Enfin, une carte détaillée de la région et une boussole vous assureront une bonne orientation sur le terrain.
Surtout, ne récoltez que les champignons dont vous êtes sûrs. Ne ramassez que des exemplaires jeunes, frais, sains et entiers. N’arrachez pas les champignons, ne les coupez pas au ras du sol mais prélevez-les en douceur en faisant levier avec une lame de couteau. Procédez directement à un rapide épluchage et enlevez la terre sommairement. Enfin, consommez votre récolte rapidement, stockez-la au frais ou séchez-la.
Coprinus comatus, ou Coprin chevelu, est un champignon comestible de la famille des Agaricaceae. © L’Autonomie par les Livres
Préparer et cuisiner
Vous ne devez pas laver vos champignons (en cas de nécessité, faites-le avec un pinceau ou une brosse humide et essuyez-les avec un linge propre). Éliminez les déchets qui ont échappé au premier nettoyage, supprimez les parties ramollies ou brunies, voire moisies et ne les laissez jamais tremper dans l’eau : ils perdraient leurs sucs et leur saveur.
Vous pouvez les cuire :
- A la poêle : un morceau de beurre, une cuillère d’huile d’olive et ajoutez les champignons coupés jusqu’à ce que l’eau rendue soit évaporée.
- A la vapeur : permet une cuisson sans matière grasse et préserve les saveurs (surtout en papillotes).
- Au four : particulièrement pour les champignons à chair spongieuse (absorbent beaucoup de graisse) comme la coulemelle. Incisez les chapeau et enduisez d’huile au pinceau.
- A l’étouffée : faites sauter les champignons puis ajoutez 25cl de bouillon et de crème, couvrez et laissez frémir 10 à 15 minutes.
- En friteuse : recommandée pour ceux riches en eau (coprins, russules…). Ils peuvent être frits nature ou après être passés dans une pâte à beignets.
- Au grill ou au barbecue : idéal pour les champignons à la texture grossière et au goût un peu fort (lactaires). Blanchissez-les d’abord 3 à 5 minutes dans de l’eau bouillante salée.
Le séchage
C’est la méthode de conservation la plus simple et la plus rapide. Elle préserve mieux que d’autres la saveur de nombreuses espèces. Il élimine complètement et rapidement l’eau contenue dans les champignons. Posez les champignons entiers ou détaillés sur une plaque de carton ou sur une claie improvisée et placez-les dans un endroit sec et aéré. Sinon, confectionnez des chapelets en enfilant les champignons à l’aide de fils et d’une aiguille, puis suspendez-les dans un endroit sec et aéré.
Les champignons à chair mince (morilles, marasmes, craterelles, trompettes-des-morts, faux-mousseron…) peuvent être séchés entier. Ceux charnus doivent être coupés en fines tranches de 2 à 4 mm d’épaisseur.
Une fois secs, vous devez les réhydrater au moins 3 heures (idéalement une demie-journée). L’eau de trempage, très parfumée, pourra être utilisée dans le jus d’un rôti ou dans une sauce. Sinon, vous pouvez les passer au mixeur pour obtenir une poudre très parfumée qui sera saupoudrée dans les sauces ou potages. Pour qu’ils conservent leur parfum, mettez-les dans des bocaux hermétiques.
La culture
850 000 tonnes de champignons de Paris sont annuellement produits dans le monde. D’abord, le fumier et la paille sont humidifiés et enrichis d’azote et de calcium. Le mélange fermente 15 jours puis il est stérilisé. On y incorpore le mycélium qui va proliférer sous forme de filaments blancs pendant 10 jours. Enfin, on couvre la surface d’un broyat de pierre calcaire et de tourbe. Les champignons se forment et peuvent être récoltés au bout de 15 jours.
Les champignons dont la culture est aujourd’hui maîtrisée sont des champignons saprophytes : ils se nourrissent de matière organique en décomposition. Les cèpes, girolles et truffes sont des champignons mycorhiziques : leur mycélium entre en synergie avec les racines des arbres. Voilà pourquoi la majorité des champignons achetés sur le marchés viennent de récoltes forestières.
Le calendrier
Janvier – Février : Truffe du Périgord, parfois oreille de Judas, pied-bleu, pézize écarlae, pholiote changeante et pleurote en forme d’huître.
Mars : Pézize des cèdres et premières morilles.
Avril : Coprin chevelu, morilles, premiers tricholomes de la St-Georges.
Mai : Coprin chevelu, premiers marasmes des Oréades, mitrophores, pholiotes
Juin : amanite rougissante, bolet à pied rouge, bolet granuleux, cèpe d’été, chanterelle, fistuline hépatique, marasme des oréades, pholiote changeante, pleurote du panicaut, agaric champêtre, russules charbonnière et verdoyante, derniers tricholomes de la St-Georges.
Juillet à Octobre : les amanites, l’armillaire couleur de miel, les bolets, chanterelles, clitocybes et meuniers, le coprin chevelu, les cortinaires, la trompette-des-morts, les lactaires et les lépiotes, la distuline hépatique, les gomphides, la guépinie, les helvelles, les hydnes, l’hygrophore des prés, le marasme des Oréades, les pézizes, les pholiotes, les pleurotes et les polypores, les agarics champêtres et les russules, les tricholomes (or tricholome de la St-Georges).
Novembre : bolet jaune, chanterelles, clitocybe géotrope, cortinaire remarquable, hydne, oreille de Judas, pholiote changeante, pleurote en forme d’huître, pied-bleu.
Décembre : Si le climat reste doux, oreille de Judas, pleurote en forme d’huître, pied-bleu, truffe du Périgord.
L’Amanite tue-mouches (Amanita muscaria) est une espèce de champignons toxiques de la famille des Amanitaceae.
Les syndromes d’intoxication
Parmi les champignons mortels, on trouve 5 syndromes :
- Phalloïdien : intoxication due à l’amanite phalloïde, l’amanite printanière, l’amanite vireuse, aux petites lépiotes et aux galères du groupe de la galère marginée. Violentes douleurs gastriques, fortes nausées, vomissements et diarrhées 8 à 12 heures après l’ingestion. 6 jours plus tard se déclare le deuxième stade : une atteinte hépatique généralement mortelle.
- Orellanien : l’intoxiqué le ressent 2 à 17 jours après la consommation du cortinaire couleur de rocou (ou une des espèces proches). Une violente sécheresse de la bouche, nausées, vomissements et diarrhées aiguës. Les reins sont rapidement détruits et la mort survient dans les 2 à 6 mois.
- Gyromitrien : consommer le gyromitre frais peut entraîner entre 5 et 48 heures plus tard des nausées, vomissements et fièvre. Le foie est rapidement détruit. Certaines personnes consomment cependant le champignon sec sans conséquence.
- Paxillien : le paxille enroulé provoque au bout de 1 ou 2 heures des réactions allergiques extrêmement graves débouchant sur une mort rapide.
- Rhabdomyolytique : le tricholome équestre peut être mortel suite à des consommations répétées. Au bout de 3 jours, destruction progressive des muscles jusqu’à l’arrêt cardiaque.
Parmi les champignons toxiques non mortels, on trouve 8 syndromes :
- Proximien : l’amanite à volve rousse entraînent (entre 8 et 14 heures) des troubles digestifs et une augmentation du volume des urines, les reins et le foie sont attaqués.
- Panthérinien : l’amanite panthère, l’amanite tue-mouches et l’amanite jonquille entraînent une sécheresse des muqueuses, une accélération du rythme cardiaque, des nausées, malaises et parfois des hallucinations, mais généralement sans gravité.
- Muscarinien : l’inocybe de Patouillard, l’amanite tue-mouches, les petits clitocybes blancs et les mycènes peuvent donner lieu à des sécrétions généralisées : les intoxiqués salivent et transpirent abondamment, pouvant perdre plusieurs kilos en une nuit.
- Psilocybien : récolte, détention et transport interdits. Les effets sont comparables à ceux des drogues dures.
- Résinoïde : l’entolome livide, le tricholome tigré, le clitocybe de l’olivier et le clitocybe trompeur provoquent de violentes douleurs gastro-intestinales.
- Acromélalgien : le clitocybe à bonne odeur entraîne de violentes douleurs dans les extrémités des membres (sensations de brûlure et de piqûre) pendant plusieurs semaines et laissant des cicatrices à vie sur les membres lésés.
- Hémolytique : amanites, ascomycètes (morilles, helvelles) ne doivent jamais être consommées crues, jetez l’eau de cuisson. Ils détruisent les globules rouges.
- Coprinien : consommé avec de l’alcool, le coprin noir d’encre provoque bourdonnements d’oreilles, anxiété et agitation désagréable, rougissement du visage, augmentation du rythme cardiaque et fortes diarrhées.
En cas d’intoxication, dès l’apparition des premiers symptômes, adressez-vous au plus vite au centre antipoison de chez vous.
Vous pouvez vous procurer le livre sur :
- Amazon : https://amzn.to/2ozZ2kB
- La librairie Eyrolles : https://www.eyrolles.com/Loisirs/Livre/larousse-des-champignons-9782035918246/?ae=60
Sommaire
Index visuel
Connaître les champignons
- Le monde des champignons
- La biologie des champignons
- La description des champignons
Les champignons et leurs milieux
- Les forêts
- Les prairies et les milieux découverts
Répertoire des espèces
- Les clés visuelles d’identification.
- Les champignons mortels
- Les champignons à lames
- Les champignons à tubes et pores
- Les champignons à aiguillons
- Formes diverses
Guide pratique
- Les meilleurs comestibles
- La cueillette des champignons
- Préparer et cuisiner les champignons
- Le séchage des champignons
- La culture des champignons
- Recettes
- Le calendrier du ramasseur
- Les syndromes d’intoxication
- Carnet d’adresses
Glossaire
- Index
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